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ISHINCA VALLEY
Our climb of Tocllaraju was a bit more challenging. On our way to the 17,200' high camp, we learned that two teams of 12 French and Slovenian climbers were turned back just short of the summit by 100 mph plus winds that morning as the sun was coming up. We then realized we would have to leave at midnight that night to avoid the fate of the French and Slovenians. As darkness arrived, the winds died down and when we awoke at midnight the stars were bright, the Milky Way clear and the air was calm. We were getting our chance to make a summit bid.
The clear but very cold weather held until just a few hundred feet from the top. We stood looking up at the most technical part of the climb as the winds picked up and the sky began to cloud over. Hernando, determined to get to the top before it became too dangerous, set off up the 60 degree wall. With the grace of a dancer he seemed to pirouette up the face using only his
frontpoints. With the anchor set and time being crowded out by wind and clouds it was Nathan's turn up the wall: "I carefully swung my ice-tools and stuck my crampons. A few steps up and my right ice-tool pulled free. At once the reality of the plunge below me, by now 6000 meters of altitude and the possibility of another slip met head on with; 'how secure are those anchors?' and 'can this rope and 150 lb Hernando really stop me should I fall?' No time to wonder now, I was committed and glad for it. I climbed out of myself and back onto the mountain."
Reaching the top of the wall paid off. Our heads were light with adrenaline as
we looked out over the ridge to the other side of the mountain. Tufts and
trails of snow and cloud rode bold winds up the cliffs and raced over the
ridge and we watched cornices grow to be the size of houses.
From here we made the summit quickly but the weather was worsening and
Hernando fairly pushed us back down after two quick pictures. It seemed to
take forever to get back down the same wall and as visibility dissipated fast
we wondered if we hadn't climbed ourselves into an epic. Once at the bottom
of the wall the descent picked up pace and before long we were celebrating
with high energy in the safety of high camp. |
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