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OUR TRIP TO THE CORDILLERA BLANCA
In July of 2001, Jim Donnelly, Dale Cottam and Nathan Cottam departed for the Cordillera Blanca to climb three or four high peaks. The list of possible peaks was long, but there was one that we all agreed should definitely be on the list: Artsonraju. The pictures were breathtaking, the route seemed challenging but within our limits, and recommendations were high from other climbers we had met. When we arrived in Peru our guide, Hernando Oropeza Lliuya, said conditions on "Arteson" were good. In fact, he had scaled it a few weeks prior. We immediately placed Artesonraju on our itinerary.
PISCO/TRAGEDY ON HUANDOY
The next day we departed Huaraz for Pisco. On the way up we had a friendly brush with the Chilean party that would unfortunately meet with disaster on Huandoy in a few days time.
Over the next three days we approached and summited Pisco. We topped out just as the sun came up, revealing Bohemian crystal skies. We enjoyed a perfect view of some of the grandest peaks in the Andes. Just over the Laguna Paron was Artesonraju. Near the top we could barely make out two climbers through our telephoto camera lens, nearly to the summit ridge just where we hoped to be in a few days. Although we were tired from our long climb on Pisco, we already had a severe case of summit fever for Artesonraju. We knew we would get our chance after a bit more acclimatization. We next departed for the Ishinca valley to attempt Ishinca and Tocllaraju. On the day we arrived we heard of the tragedy on Huandoy. The Chilean summit team of three climbers was struck by an avalanche in a steep coulouir between Huandoy Norte and Huandoy Este. The avalanche carried them all the way down to the glacier below killing all three climbers.
ISHINCA VALLEY
Ishinca was in perfect condition last year. The climb was a real treat-not too difficult but beautiful and interesting. The highlight of the climb was the ice cave with wild, twisted icicles and endless blue caverns. |
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